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This rinky-dink restaurant—near-bare white walls encase about a dozen tables and a tiny sushi bar—used to be the province of its eponymous female sushi chef, who has quietly moved on, taking her creative omakase meals with her. The chef behind the bar these days is Makoto Yamada, and though his sushi is not at a level that warrants comparison to hers or the stuff served at New York's big boys, the fish is fresh, tasty, and properly sized (no monster sushi here), and the rice is competently made. The rest of the dishes on the cookie-cutter menu, which runs from tempura and teriyaki to the standard assortment of Japanese appetizers, are above average, making Taka a good choice when you're tired of the neighborhood's many Euro-inflected boîtes. Of course, there are also the requisite silly rolls, including one squirted with curry mayo, which are pleasant enough, if that's your thing. — JJ Goode

Sunomono, $9; broiled eggplant with miso sauce, $6; sushi regular, $18

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