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Amidst the playful chaos of Little Italy, Taormina of Mulberry Street is a refined reprieve. Named after a picturesque resort town in Sicily, the kitchen draws its inspiration from both Southern and Northern Italian traditions. Floor to ceiling windows pivot open and beckon visitors to the blond wood-paneled dining room accented by elaborate flower arrangements, brass railings, etched glass, and watercolor paintings. Mozzarella in carozza, a Neapolitan street snack, drapes a vibrant tomato sauce over golden-fried bread oozing with sweet, creamy cheese; stuffed eggplant rolls swell with delicate ricotta cheese. More than two dozen pasta choices suit every taste, from pappardelle with porcini mushrooms to linguine all'amatricana. Veal scaloppine is prepared six ways; the sorrentina style is layered with eggplant, prosciutto, and mozzarella cheese in a tangy tomato and white wine sauce. The tender Pollo Taormina, a house creation, comes in a sauce with harmoniously acidic notes from the combination of artichokes, mushrooms, sun-dried tomatoes, and white wine. The restaurant has numerous grilled dishes—double-cut veal chops, rack of lamb, and campignola, which consists of filet mignon, sausage, and chicken. The choices overwhelm, but they don't disappoint. — Michael Anstendig

Mozzarella en carozza, $9.50; penne arrabiata, $14; linguine with clam sauce, $16; pollo taormina, $16.50