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You know those people who still insist that there’s no real Mexican food in New York? A trip here will shut them up quick: Under the rattling 7 train, where there’s a taqueria on every block, Coatzingo—one of the biggest, and probably the best—bustles from early till late, serving huge plates of huevos rancheros to day laborers and steaming bowls of seafood soup to Latin-clubbers. Squeeze in past the open grill, and you’ll find a sprawling, brightly lit dining room with a jukebox blasting Mexican hits. It’s a friendly, blue-collar sort of place, serving blue-collar sort of food—which often means a heavy hand with salt and fat. The meat-centric menu offers great greasy carnitas—chunks of fried pork—grillled carne asada, and crumbly shocking-red chorizo. You can order these in various permutations: Tacos and burritos and tostadas are standard, but the restaurant also offers more adventurous options like fat cornmeal huaraches and cemitas, the Puebla specialty sandwich, served on a soft, eggy bun. An ever-changing list of untranslated daily specials usually includes an assortment of thickly sauced hearty meat dishes. If you’re feeling up to it, just point to one—you can’t get any more real than that. — Steven Stern

Tacos, $2; cemitas, $6.50; chalupas, $9.50; mole poblano, $11.50