Sun-Mon, 4pm-midnight; Tue-Thu, 4pm-2am; Fri-Sat, 4pm-4am
F at Second Ave.; F, J, M, Z at Delancey St.-Essex St.
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Canal St. to 23rd St., FDR Dr. to Broadway
"This is the only place in the world that serves only taquitos,” said the slightly scruffy dude behind the counter of the new single-item-menu snack shop, Taquitoria, the other night. “The only place in the entire world,” he added. A skeptic might point out that this is like someone in the office-supply business boasting that “ours is the only store in the known universe that sells just Scotch tape.” Still, if the local restaurant economy can continue to support that place on Spring Street that peddles rice pudding and rice pudding alone, why not taquitos? That, anyway, is what Taquitoria’s owners (three friends who met while working at Restaurant Marc Forgione) are banking on.
In case you didn’t know, a taquito, a.k.a. a flauta, is a tortilla (usually corn) rolled up tightly around a filling and deep-fried. Unlike the versions you find on, say, the hot-dog warmer at 7-Eleven, Taquitoria’s taquitos are filled with upscale ingredients like shredded Creekstone Farms beef and Berkshire pork. There’s also one stuffed with black beans and another with Bell & Evans chicken that’s been braised in Marc Forgione’s Batch 22 Bloody Mary mix. The taquitos come three or five to an order ($5 and $8) and topped in either “classic” style (shredded romaine, guacamole sauce, and grated cotija cheese) or “cheesy” (a tangy Cheez Whiz-like substance, sour cream, and a zingy pickled-jalapeño relish). Every combination is terrific: one salty, spicy, super-crunchy bite the culinary equivalent of ringing the county-fair sledgehammer bell in a single blow. Not that there isn’t a little room for improvement: The meats and beans tend to get overwhelmed by the texture of the tortillas and the flavor of toppings. And to the frustration of those who want to try the entire menu without handing over $20, the restaurant doesn't allow you to mix up the fillings. When you run the only place on the planet trafficking strictly in taquitos, you make your own rules.Note
The shop takes orders through Friday for Buffalo-style taquitos ($75 for 40 for Sunday pickup; $80 with delivery).Ideal Meal
Three “cheesy” pork taquitos, and three “classic” chicken.