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In the sushi universe, "reasonably priced" often means "mediocre." But Taro aims to make exceptional quality comfortably affordable, and oft times, it succeeds. Tuna is rich; its texture, delicate. Sea urchin—usually best avoided—proves sweet and ocean-salty. The place to sit is at the bar, both for the chance to interact with chef Yuji Sano and because it allows you to eat his fine creations seconds after they're made, while the vinegar-seasoned rice is still warm. The sushi menu is complemented by a range of adequate rolls and various delectable exotica, such as the creamy monkfish liver which rests next to seaweed and cucumber at the bottom of a deep bowl of bracingly tart ponzu sauce. (Take away the hint of sea salt and this dish would be a dead ringer for foie gras au torchon.) — JJ Goode

Monkfish liver, $6; fried oyster roll, $5.50; sea urchin, $5; tuna, $2.50