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The strip between Elmhurst and Whitney Avenues should be renamed Little Golden Triangle in honor of its Southeast Asian restaurants. This particular eatery traffics in Malaysian cuisine. Thin tables decorated with old restaurant reviews are pushed up against either side of the narrow room, leaving a small runway for shuttling food from the kitchen at back. Taste Good’s earthy funk is edgeless—bold ingredients like ginger, curry, and anchovy somehow homogenize while the same compote of pounded chiles and shrimp paste is used to fry spiced okra as asambal squid. The simpler dishes succeed more often, like the griddle-blistered roti canai with mild chicken curry, or the crispy log of fish paste wrapped in soybean curd. While these mellow renditions taste good, it’s hard not to wish for dishes that were less pretty and more aggressively flavorful. — Ganda Suthivarakom

Roti canai, $2.35; crispy fish cake, $8.50