6, J, N, Q, R, Z to Canal St.
Monroe St. to Hester St., Pike St. to Lafayette St.
In and of itself, the opening of another hand-pulled-noodle joint isn’t exactly major news. But this humble little spot has several things going for it: an open kitchen, where the young noodle-slinger is on full, athletic view as he bangs, twirls, and separates the dough into discrete strands; an extremely friendly staff who proffer apologies when your order doesn’t materialize in the standard three minutes; and table garnishes, like fresh cilantro and pungent chile oil, that transform the soup. The noodles are springy and tender, the broth meaty but not heavy in the least. And should you feel like forgoing hot soup on some occasion, we recommend the knife-peel noodles, thickish shards pan-sautéed with cabbage and scallions and topped with the protein of your choice. At $9, the eel noodle soup is the priciest thing on the menu.