Every Astorian claims a favorite Greek grill and judging by its brisk business, Taverna Kyclades tops many a local list. Perhaps that’s because the lively space furnishes a better-than-average meal at a moderate tab. Its French-window-lined, Aegean-blue-ceilinged dining room is tightly packed with lacquered wood tables as neighbors share recommendations and even tastes. Seafood entrées may be grilled or fried; go for the former, especially the lightly broiled, meaty scallops accompanied by crisply fried potato rounds. Greek salads are prosaic, so go with a solicitous customer’s tip and order the zesty spreads — taramosalata, potato-garlic skordalia, yogurt-cucumber tsatsiki, or spicy cheesy tirokafteri. Dessert — galaktoboureko custard — is on the house. In warm weather, a patio supplies an open-air mixture of the Long Island Sound, breezes, and cigarette smoke. Clearly Ardian “the Giant” Skenderi, the six-foot-six owner-chef who’s an expert with fish, has a healthier slant than the patio’s Marlboro men.