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This old-timer exudes Mediterranean calm with its beach mural, bucolic back garden, and airy main dining room. Co-owner Nana Loiselle greets guests at the door, looking remarkably energetic for someone who woke up at dawn to pluck the day's best catches from the Fulton Fish Market. Her finds—served whole, grilled and, if you like, de-boned—are so fresh that any accompanying  sauce beyond a spritz of lemon would be an insult. The tzatziki dip is thick enough to stand up on its own, while the saganaki, sheep's milk cheese pan fried in olive oil until gooey, is made with salty, aromatic kefalograviera imported from Greece. All dinners end with complimentary loukoumades, fried balls of dough sprinkled with cinnamon and swimming in honey, which are enhanced by the strong Greek coffee. — Keach Hagey

Porgy, $19; saganaki, $9