Mon-Thu, noon-11pm; Fri-Sat, noon-11:30pm; Sun, noon-10:30pm
B, C at Cathedral Pkwy./110th St.
American Express, MasterCard, Visa
94th St. to 120th St., Central Park West to Riverside Dr.
The décor may come off a bit theme-parky, with its Bangkok street signs and street-market photo murals, but the kitchen seems to prize authenticity over artifice. The menu is voluminous and modeled after a broadsheet, and the first-time diner would do well to heed the hyperefficient server’s advice. That’s how we happily ended up with dishes he claimed couldn’t be found at cookie-cutter pad Thai parlors: the daikon cake, for starters, sautéed with soy sauce, bean sprouts, and egg, and the tart minced salmon, flavored with chili, mint, lemongrass, and galanga, and served at room temperature with lettuce leaves for wrapping. Don’t get us wrong—this still isn’t the unabashedly sour, tart, electrifyingly spicy stuff Thai-food fiends’ dreams are made of. For that, you’ll need to trek out to Queens. But for upper Manhattan, it’s a great option, made even greater by the breezy open-air façade.Recommended Dishes
Daikon cake, $6.50; salmon wrap, $7