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Think of ethnic eats in Astoria and Asian food doesn’t exactly spring to mind. Yet the neighborhood has seen a recent outbreak of such restaurants, with the particularly notable addition of Thai Pavilion. Popular for both dining and delivery, this informal spot doles out a roster of simple, delicious dishes presented with flair and prepared in chicken, pork, beef and shrimp varieties. Silky, steamed dumplings filled with ground chicken, peanut and radish and garnished with parsley make a tasty starter, while sautéed lamb served with potatoes, onion and peanuts in a spicy masaman curry is a highlight among the slightly more adventurous specials. There’s no high-concept fusion dishes or décor to be found here. Rather, run-of-the-mill wall hangings, kitschy figurines, and glass tabletops outfit the square space, which gives off a cheery, pleasant vibe. Unobtrusive service and the staff’s bright, mandarin-collared shirts add to the low-key charm. — Kate Appleton

$15 minimum for credit cards

Steamed dumplings filled with ground chicken, peanut and radish and garnished with parsley, $6; sautéed lamb served with potatoes, onion and peanuts in a spicy masaman curry, $16