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A glittery arch of iridescent tiles marks the entrance to this “alternative Thai” spot on a still-gritty Ninth Avenue block. It’s not quite an apt gateway for Thai Select, whose glam-sounding fusion experiments – strawberry duck, tom yum fried rice, Thai linguine – fall flat. If you stick with the basics you can still build a satisfying meal here. Thai staples like som thum, or papaya salad, are aggressively spiced, and traditional curries taste appropriately piquant. Thai Select’s room stands out, with op-art panels between tables, giant backlit photos on the walls and ceiling, and an elaborate Buddha-statue tableau in back, Thai export tags still attached. — Michael Kaminer

Som thum, $8.95; cashew nut tofu, $8.95; green curry with chicken, $9.95