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With apricot-colored walls, dark wooden tables and a vase of tall, fragrant flowers, Thai Sesame lures neighborhood locals into a space that's soothing to the eye, but, due to a jangling telephone, less so on the ear. In spotty moments, the jasmine tea arrives as hot water with a tea bag, and the sticky rice, served in a pint-sized woven barrel, adheres tightly to its cellophane liner. But once the main dishes hit the table, flaws are forgotten in a welcome rush of basil, ginger, lemongrass, and garlic. The soup, loaded with lotus root and other Asian veggies, blends familiar comfort with a spicy kick. Fresh basil rolls, wrapped in translucent rice paper and served with chili sauce, improve on the common spring roll, and entrées of duck, crisp-skinned whole snapper and a hit parade of delicately sautéed Thai favorites showcase excellent basic technique. The chef and the attentive, unobtrusive staff graciously accommodate diners' dietary and spice requirements, offering a gluten-based "vegetarian" chicken or beef, and mild, medium or "Thai hot" seasonings. — Helen Zelon

Savory bargains abound weekdays at lunchtime (noon to 3 p.m.), with 13 choices of entrée for $6.15, along with reasonably-priced appetizers, soups, salads, and noodles.

Fresh basil rolls (appetizer), $4; tom yum gai (hot and sour soup), $4; spicy noodles with basil and garlic sauce, $9; pla sam ros (whole fish with three-flavor sauce), $18