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The décor isn’t much to speak of: dark red walls, framed images of rural Asia, and a dozen tables. The food follows suit: a predictable array of Thai staples such as noodles, meat sautés, curries, and some seafood and poultry specials. With some exceptions, dishes are well executed with the lighter and simpler preparations faring best—especially the fish. Tom Kha soup has a silky broth of coconut milk; steamed red snapper arrives whole, its flaky white filet flanked by a generous serving of broccoli and carrots. But when you’re paying $7 for a lunch special, you’re hardly likely to complain about such decent fare. — Daniel Hightower Smith

Steamed whole red snapper, $19