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If a Thai eatery popped up in Design Within Reach’s windows, the chill-soundtracked aftermath might look like ThaiNY. Owner Peter Chotimanenophan swears he designed all three dining areas himself—an impressive undertaking, considering the sheer number of witty, thoughtful touches. From glass-inlaid gold leaf set into each table to clever portholes exposing the kitchen, and from sharp-angled metal light fixtures to a “banquette” of giant red leather dots, ThaiNY offers a visual feast that outshines the menu. The kitchen just doesn’t have the chops to deliver on the room’s seductive promise. A green papaya salad boasts distinctive flavors, unlike most other appetizers, while “sexy duck,” with tender meat and cashews in a piquant mix of pineapple, lime juice, and ginger, proves a tasty exception among watered-down entrées. Considering that the kitchen staff hails from Thailand, the bland offerings are particularly disappointing. — Michael Kaminer