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Oversize oil paintings depicting waterfront scenes decorate the exposed-brick walls of this American eatery, open since 1968—but, oddly, seafood isn’t the restaurant’s focus. Just a few dishes on the Beach Café’s please-all menu feature fish, including a decent pan-roasted Atlantic salmon, standard shrimp scampi over linguine, and an entrée-size shrimp Cobb salad. Needlessly dressed-up classics—like meat loaf with green peas drowned in a too rich shallot-butter sauce, and a boneless pork chop suffused with vanilla—make up the bulk of the offerings, along with familiar salads, club sandwiches, and pasta dishes, including penne primavera and linguini Bolognese. For a restaurant with crystal chandeliers, linen tablecloths, and tie-sporting waiters, it may be surprising to find that a humble hamburger is the menu’s sole standout—but the “Beach” burger, a juicy charbroiled beef patty, smothered with cheese and sautéed onions, doesn’t disappoint. With mostly mediocre food and notoriously slow service, dining here is no day at the beach—but for a simple burger in the area, this café will suffice. — Alexis Korman

“Beach” burger with sautéed onions and cheese, $11.50