The Beatrice Inn

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80 Good

The 80-year-old-plus West Village restaurant has become a very meaty chef-owned chophouse.

285 W. 12th St., New York, NY, 10014

212-675-2808

http://www.thebeatriceinn.com/

Reserve on OpenTable

Known For

The lowdown

Over its decades-long run, the Beatrice Inn has served as a Prohibition-era speakeasy, a family-owned 1950s Italian restaurant, and a subterranean coke den for early-aughts A-listers. The talented and flamboyant meat cook Angie Mar has now transformed the ancient West Village space into a kind of grandiose (and not inexpensive) fresser’s paradise, replete with whole ducks hoisted to the table in the flaming flambé style, great dinosaur-sized tomahawk chops aged for months to a kind of gamy tenderness, and if you go for the excellent weekend brunch, one of the finest examples of opulent old-fashioned prime rib in town.

Adam Platt

What you need to know

Recommended DishesDry-aged burger; milk-braised pork shoulder; lamb tartare.

DrinksFull Bar

Noise LevelCivilized