The Breslin Bar and Dining Room

If you want to glimpse how the obsessions of the old-school food world shifted during the early aughts, from four-star soufflés to a more elemental brand of first-class cooking, April Bloomfield’s Nomad gastropub is still one of the premier places in town to do it. The lamb burger is a thing of beauty, and so is the intensely flavored, intensely British beef-and-Stilton pie. The real specialties of the house, however, are the Bunyanesque pig dishes, like the milk-braised pork, pork-fried pancetta toast, and whole roasted suckling pig, which requires a special order, and which you can complement, if you’re still standing upright, with a whole array of enticing British-style puddings and tarts.