The Cannibal

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86 Very Good

This homage to all things animal turns from lunchtime sandwich shop into a nighttime beef-and-beer club.

111-113 E. 29th St., New York, NY, 10016

212-685-5585

http://thecannibalnyc.com/

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The lowdown

True to its name, the Cannibal ate one of its own kind: it started as a low-key add-on to Resto before gobbling up that space. Indoor seating is confined to metal stools at two wooden counters (one of which functions as a butcher shop by day) and one four-top table, making groups hard — too bad, since the selection of meat-centric small plates is ideal for sharing. Thankfully, the heated patio offers an additional 40 seats. Cold and cured items line one side of the butcher-paper menu, including heaping piles of ham (the Benton’s Smoky lives up to its name so much it recalls an expensive Scotch), smaller portions of cured sausages, and whole fresh sausages, including a too-mushy though nicely spiced boudin noir. The menu’s highlight, funnily enough, is the unassuming-sounding Cannibal dog, topped with mapo-tofu-inspired tripe-and-ground-short-rib chili, raw onions, and yellow mustard. The sauce is less overwhelming than typical chili, and the dogs themselves are so lusciously juicy you’ll be tempted to order more for dessert. Beer fans should take note of the sprawling list of European and domestic suds, available by draft (the eight taps are always changing) or by the bottle — to go or to stay.

What you need to know

Insider Tips Check the nightly selection of animal-fat fries.

Recommended DishesCannibal dog with chili; lamb heart tartare; crispy pig ear salad; 36-ounce 50-day dry-aged rib eye.

DrinksFull Bar

Noise LevelCivilized