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The Commodore

Critic's Pick Critics' Pick

366 Metropolitan Ave., Brooklyn, NY 11211 40.713838 -73.955796
at Havemeyer St.  See Map | Subway Directions Hopstop Popup
718-218-7632 Send to Phone

  • Cuisine: American Traditional, Cajun/Creole
  • Price Range: $

    Key to Prices and ratings

    Upscale
    • Almost Perfect
    • Exceptional
    • Generally Excellent
    • Very Good
    • Good
    Cheap Eats
    • Best in Category
    • Excellent
    • Delicious
    • Very Good
    • Noteworthy
    • Very Expensive
    • Expensive
    • Moderate
    • Cheap
  • Reader Rating:

    6 out of 10

      |  

    9 Reviews | Write a Review

Photo by Elliot Black

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Hours

Sun-Thu, 4pm-midnight; Fri-Sat, 4pm-1am

Nearby Subway Stops

G, L at Metropolitan Ave.-Lorimer St.; L at Bedford Ave.

Prices

$3-$10

Payment Methods

Discover, MasterCard, Visa

Special Features

  • Good for Groups
  • Late-Night Dining

Alcohol

  • Full Bar

Profile

Georgia native and fried-chicken virtuoso Stephen Tanner co-founded the original Pies-N-Thighs and then sold his interest in the restaurant a few years back. Before that, he cooked at Diner, and post-P-N-T, at Egg, which, in the realm of Brooklyn gastronomy, makes him somewhat of a seminal figure in his adopted Williamsburg. At the Commodore, he’s cooking what might be the best cheap bar food in town. The chicken arrives with three substantial thighs to a plate, with hot sauce, tender mini-biscuits, and honey butter. It’s hot and juicy, with a craggy crust that crackles resoundingly when you bite into it, the way a good croissant does. In short, it’s among the best fried chicken in town. But there is much more to Tanner’s brief menu. There is, for instance, the adult cheese sandwich, a pimento-and-poblano assemblage of such perfect creamy, crispy texture and rich, tangy flavor that it might be too fine to waste on the neighborhood’s booming toddler population. Other elevated pub grub includes a vinegary pulled-pork sandwich, a towering, satisfying, and well-dressed burger, first-rate fries, and two soupy stews: a fragrant green-chile posole with chicken, and the black-eyed pea surprise!, in which a biscuit or hunk of cornbread is drowned in legumes. He must have the vegetarian-locavore constituency in mind with plates like springy sautéed rainbow chard and snap peas with hard-cooked egg.

The clientele seems drawn in, in large part, by the kitschy cocktails (the house drink is a piña colada with an amaretto float) and cheap beer, the weekend D.J., and the festive vibe. There are video games and one of those faceless cardboard cutouts depicting King Kong and Fay Wray, popular among carnivalgoers. (For those looking to sit and enjoy the food, the four back-room booths are your best bet.)

Ideal Meal

Fried chicken with biscuits and Saltie potato salad or adult cheese sandwich and green-chile hominy.

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