- Critics’ Pick
The Leopard at des Artistes
- Italian Appetizers, $9 to $15entrées, $24 to $40
1 W. 67th St.
New York, NY 10023
- Neighborhood: Upper West Side
- Phone: 212-787-8767
This kind of old-fashioned A-list celebrity spotting (the Sorrentinos cultivate a similar clientele at their midtown restaurant, Il Gattopardo—the Leopard in Italian) makes a trip to the Leopard worthwhile, provided you’re willing to put up with the prices (only three entrées are under $30) and the steady procession of uneven, fairly rudimentary Southern Italian grub. I enjoyed my grilled-octopus (with green olives) appetizer well enough, but the broth covering a tepid version of Sardinian “fregula” seafood stew tasted like it had been poured from a tomato can. The risotto of the day (with summer vegetables) was beautifully cooked, but the simple spaghetti alla chitarra (with tomatoes and basil) was so gummy and listless that one of my scandalized tasters compared it to “Sicilian hospital food.” The branzino drew similar comments, so order the simple roasted dorado instead, followed, for dessert, by the smooth, dissolving flan, which is touched, in classic uptown style, with caramel sauce and the lightest hint of passion fruit
Mon-Fri, 5pm-11:30pm Sat, 11:30am-3pm and 5pm-11:30pm Sun, 11:30am-3pm and 5pm-10pm
Appetizers, $9 to $15 entrées, $24 to $40
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57th St. to 77th St., Central Park West to Riverside Blvd.