The Modern

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86 Very Good

Danny Meyer takes on the tired world of institutional museum food.

9 W. 53rd St., New York, NY, 10019

212-333-1220

http://themodernnyc.com

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The lowdown

The town is awash in high-profile museum-dining destinations these days, it’s true, but if mixing food and culture are your particular thing, this original haute-culture Danny Meyer joint remains the gold standard not just in the neighborhood, but arguably, in all of New York. The prime, high-roller tables are along the north wall, looking out over the famous MoMA sculpture garden, but in the famous Meyer tradition, it’s possible to eat just as well at the long, convivial bar of the more casual Bar Room, where the menu, orchestrated these days by chef Abram Bissell, included shrimp fritters the last time we visited, and lobster en croute, doused, in high midtown fashion, with Champagne sauce.

Adam Platt

What you need to know

DrinksFull Bar

Noise LevelCivilized