• Critics’ Pick
  • The NoMad

  • American Traditional Appetizers, $14 to $24entrées, $20 to $78.
  • 1170 Broadway
    New York, NY 10001
  • Neighborhood: Flatiron
  • Phone: (212) 796-1500
The NoMad Photo
6
In the old, genteel world of restaurants, maybe you hired a few more cooks when you hit the big time, or, if you were feeling rash, expanded into the space next door after a year or two. But in the upper echelons of today’s ­multimillion-dollar restaurant industry, success is almost more complicated than failure. After a chef has his first big triumph, he will be all but obligated by his business partners and investors to expand. How, in short, do you “monetize” your good fortune (i.e., make piles of cash) in the most effective and tasteful way, without ruining your brand? Many of these delicate calculations are on display at Daniel Humm’s posh, coolly impersonal new restaurant, NoMad, in the lobby of the NoMad Hotel. It's clearly been designed as a “casual” bookend to Eleven Madison Park, which Humm and his partners purchased from Danny Meyer. Here, he and the restaurateur Will Guidara have decided to jam a hodgepodge of styles under one roof. Thanks to this eclectic, circus-tent arrangement, the enjoyment of your meal can vary drastically according to your taste, and where you happened to be seated. The menu is carefully calibrated to suit every taste, with snacks including tiny boutique radishes coated in butter, fancy vegetable entrées for New Age vegivores, old-fashioned French classics for the traditionalists, surf-and-turf dishes for the business/hotel crowd, and a seven-course tasting menu for fancy gourmets comprising all of the above. The weakest part of the menu are the snacks, especially the radishes (too buttery) and the fried chicken (no spice). But after that, Humm’s cooking begins to click into high gear, like a well-engineered European sedan. My friend the French Snob had nothing but kind things to say about the pleasingly smooth torchon of foie gras, with bits of delicately mashed tête de cochon at its center, or the dainty, canoe-shaped marrow bone softened with shallots, parsley, and a buttery gratinée of bread crumbs. With one or two exceptions, the main courses at NoMad are similarly accomplished. None of the grand, pricey barnyard creations are quite as satisfying, though, as the chicken for two, which Humm’s army of cooks roast in a wood-burning oven and serve, as at Eleven Madison, pre-carved, with deposits of foie gras–rich brioche inserted under the crackly skin. This excellent NoMad chicken lacks the ceremony and the grandeur of the Eleven Madison version, of course, and this is a hotel restaurant, which means Humm’s team is responsible for room service and high-volume party events. As a result, there’s a vague assembly-line feel to the proceedings compounded by the prices.

Award Links

Feature Links

http://thenomadhotel.com
  • Hours

    Dinner Sunday 5:30 to 10 p.m., Monday through Thursday 5:30 to 10:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 11 p.m. Lunch daily noon to 2 p.m. Breakfast daily 7 to 10 a.m.

  • Prices

    Appetizers, $14 to $24 entrées, $20 to $78.

  • Payment

    American Express Discover MasterCard Visa

  • Special Features

    Lunch Breakfast Notable Chef Notable Wine List Special Occasion Hot Spot Online Reservation Romantic

  • Alcohol

    Full Bar

  • Reservations

    Recommended

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