Mon, 6pm-11pm; Wed-Fri, 6-11pm; Sat-Sun, 5pm-11pm
F, G at Carroll St.
The friendly staff at the Pines—named for a defunct Adirondack summer camp—knows its way around the focused, American nouveau menu, and seems to genuinely enjoy talking about it. The atmosphere here is of a now-familiar Brooklyn type: original tin ceilings up top and plenty of reclaimed wood on the floor, plus Biggie on the stereo. Two window-front booths offer seating for groups—a picnic table (à la Roberta's, where chef Angelo Romano once cooked) offers additional space for more. The dishes themselves aren't fussy. “Greens” (fresh kale, swiss chard, or bok choy) come with a surprisingly light egg yolk dressing, cherry peppers, and the satisfying, salty crunch of guanciale. Barely pink Berkshire pork shoulder comes accompanied here by rye berry, chestnut, and pineapple. Each meal begins with an amuse bouche (recently a blanched garbanzo bean with housemade crema and salt) and ends with a spiced blood orange soda palate cleanser. Euro-centric wines, six house cocktails, and a modest but solid selection of draft beer (and a backyard!) make the Pines as good a place to drink as it is to eat. It's all the fun of summer camp with none of the drama.Recommended Dishes
Greens ($12), Pici ($19)