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19 Corson Ave.,
Staten Island, NY 10301
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A tidy, proud spirit manifests itself at the twelve tables at this straight-forwardly named restaurant, covered in pretty burgundy or bright green cloths with artificial flowers in wedding-favor vases, and carved wooden boxes that hold your check post-meal. Above the tables is a curvy wooden overhang, which ornately hides the dropped ceiling. More tasteful is what they make for the plate. The chubby, irregularly shaped pirogen topped by caramelized onions are made on the premises and easily shared. Hungarian pancakes are more than the name suggests—there is the thick, crispy, onion-flecked namesake, but the dish also comes heaped with smoky, paprika-punched goulash topped with sour cream. If you're feeling regal, it's the Chrobry—pot-roast-tender beef wrapped around ham stuffed with peppers and mushrooms in a simple pan gravy—that will make you feel as robust as the Polish king it's named after.
Recommended DishesHungarian potato pancakes, $12.95; mixed pierogi, $8.95; Chrobry, $12.95
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