The Pool

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79 Solid

The Major Food Group’s seafood-focused revamp of the Four Seasons’ Pool Room.

99 E. 52nd St., New York, NY, 10022

212-375-9001

http://thepoolnewyork.com

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The lowdown

Seafood is the theme of the Major Food Group’s polished, icy, reimagining of Philip Johnson’s famous Pool Room, on Park Avenue. There’s a slowly turning Calder mobile above the original pool, along with acres of blue carpet on the floor, and a glimmering million-dollar collection of that favorite hedge-fund libation of yesteryear, Château d’Yquem. Rich Torrisi’s diligent, extravagantly priced, connect-the-dots menu has its admirable qualities (the oysters, the uni toast service, the Dover sole), and so do the desserts (yogurt parfait, the Meyer-lemon meringue for dessert), but there’s a slightly placed sameness to the proceedings that might have you glancing at your watch as dinner proceeds, and goggling at the size of your final bill.

Adam Platt

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What you need to know

DrinksFull Bar

Noise LevelCivilized