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This storied spot has become rather more sedate since its heyday as Larry Forgione's An American Place and Terrence Brennan's Chop House. Now, as the Restaurant at The Benjamin, it’s a slick, indistinct hotel dining room that would feel right at home in Minneapolis or Houston. Furnished in vague Italian modern with lots of lacquer, polished wood, and black leather, the dimly lit room sees steady traffic at breakfast and lunch, but quiets down in the evening. A straightforward American menu strives for casual elegance, but artless presentation, like a lovely, slow-roasted char set atop sloppy wilted greens, fumbles the kitchen’s best intentions. House-made desserts include good-enough cheesecake and seasonal berry tart. With a hard-to-find entrance off the hotel lobby and a single frosted window, this a prime midtown venue for a well-heeled tryst or confidential merger talks. — Michael Kaminer

Order from Benjamin’s dinner menu at the Emery Bar next door, which serves classic drinks to a lively after-work crowd in a Deco-ish setting named for fabled architect Emery Roth, whose classic New York buildings include the Beresford, the San Remo—and the Benjamin.

Fire-grilled free-range chicken with baby organic arugula, shaved pears, and truffle chèvre, $26