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“Is it authentic?” That’s the perennial question asked when a new barbecue joint opens. Yet the Smoke Joint sidesteps any divisive answers by offering “real New York barbecue.” This means chef-owners Craig Samuel and Ben Grossman aren’t out to mimic America’s pit traditions so much as they’re looking to feed on them. Freed from reproducing regional replicas, the Brooklyn-born duo, which collaborated at Picholine, Cub Room, and City Hall, riffs within a tiny dining area dominated by an open kitchen with a Cookshack smoker — fueled by maple, hickory, and mesquite — in full view of the casual clientele. Hacked pork (an homage to South Carolina) is moist and flavorful; Texas-inspired short ribs are tender and smoky; and the snappy Black Angus dog may be among one of the best in town. — Michael Anstendig

The Joint dog, $3; pulled pork, $10; beef short ribs, $16; vinegar/black pepper coleslaw, $3

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Best of New York Awards

• Best Hot Dog (2008)

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