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Gigantic picture windows give this oak-paneled, nine-table spot the allure of grander digs. Both a marble-topped bar and a broad wooden communal table with high, aqua-colored stools make roomy perches for checking out chefs at work in the open kitchen. The 22 Old and New World wines by-the-glass are the main attraction here, so the food selection is limited, but well-curated. An outstanding lobster roll rejects a traditional mayo-laden filling and hot-dog roll platform in favor of plump chunks of just-shelled, buttery meat on a garlic-rubbed, toasted roll. Equally crave-worthy are the trio of Kobe burgers, topped with Vermont cheddar and sweet-sour pickled onions, which can be noshed in just a few happy bites. — Amy Zavatto

Lobster roll, $15; Mini Kobe sliders, $10; ahi tuna crudo, $11