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Thistle Hill Tavern owes its lack of pretention mostly to its location at the far south end of Seventh Avenue in Park Slope, but simple wood furnishings and a display of vintage Brooklyn maps and photography reinforce the notion that this is just a neighborhood pub; the custom stained glass over the entry hints at an evolved level of craftsmanship that is reflected in the food. Hearty but complex, the duck confit will not disappoint. The seasonal menu changes, but burgers the size of a small fist served on a house-made potato roll are a satisfying constant as are the steamed mussels in a light broth with hints of tomato and onion. Fried fennel with a squeeze of lemon makes for an addictive starter. Despite an entrée list that leans heavily on meat, the salads are far from an afterthought, changing with the calendar to incorporate market-fresh peas, sweet corn and the like. Skip dessert and order a second cocktail from the well-stocked bar instead. — Chelsey Simpson

Burger, $15; oven roasted half chicken, $20; fried fennel, $5

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