Profile

At Tierras Salvadoreñas, a friendly, spotlessly clean Salvadoran family restaurant in Jackson Heights, corn reaches its apotheosis in two delectable forms. The pupusas—thick, coaster-size corn-masa pancakes—are fried on a griddle and stuffed with savory fillings like cheese, refried beans, and pork. Meant to be eaten with its accompanying garnishes of curtido, a pinkish, spicy cole slaw, and a subtly spicy tomato sauce, the pupusa is the ultimate snack food. Except, maybe, for the tamal de elote, a velvety corn tamale served with either cheese or a crème fraîche-like cream. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfled