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That dapper man at the anonymous double doors might seem to be guarding a juke joint, but aside from dressing his waitress in a cigarette-girl getup, loading the cocktail menu with expertly mixed classics like the Sazerac and the Negroni, and putting some Coltrane on the speakers, Lesly Bernard was careful not to make his follow-up to Clementine’s and Pravda pure throwback: Just look at the photos on the cheery yellow walls and you’ll see that Parliament shares space with Bessie Smith and Big John Patton over clubby U-booth alcoves that recall Lenox Lounge. And though bottled Sugar Hill nods toward Harlem, don’t look for chicken and waffles on the menu: The dainty Monte Cristo is made with egg-dipped brioche and plated with blackberry preserves, while the French onion soup, accompanied by homemade spicy potato chips, pairs a spicy dipping jus with a grilled Gruyère sandwich made from a garlic-rubbed country loaf. There are more traditional small dishes too, but you’re unlikely to be chowing on ribs if you’ve snagged a seat in the red-lit back enclave, under a skylight and next to a roaring stone fireplace. — Daniel Maurer