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Nearly everyone seems like regulars at Astoria’s Time Café. The small town diner illusion is shattered only by a lack of formica and swivel stools. Shiny hardwood floors, ochre squares checkering the walls, contemporary jazz (occasionally performed live), and spot-lit shelves of books make the place feel more like a Barnes & Noble café. Minus the grilled Serbian sausages called cevapcici (this is Queens) the concise menu plays it safe with Chicken Caesar salads and burgers. A big draw is the weekend brunch where eggs are the star and stiff Bloody Marys lubricate conversation. The thin Swiss cheese and chopped tomato omelet is practically dainty, though any lightness is cancelled out by the side of fries and bacon. Night owls are also accommodated—where else could a midnight wine and panini craving be satisfied this close to Steinway Street? — Krista Garcia

Three egg omelet with bacon, tomato and Swiss, $12 (served at brunch)