Giving your restaurant the same name as a dish that you serve can be dangerous: If the dish doesn’t deliver, you look rather foolish. There are certainly no red faces in Tiramisu’s kitchen—and the light and fluffy dessert is just one solid dish among the deliciously straightforward fare. Pastas like Fusilli alla Verdure (fresh vegetables, tomato sauce, and mozzarella) and Ravioli alla Cardinale (ricotta & spinach ravioli with shrimp and zucchini in tomato sauce) are simple yet robust. And while there’s no paucity of pizza on the Upper East Side, Tiramisu’s nine-inch pies stand alone in their resemblance to the authentic thin and crispy Italian ones. The large wood-burning oven in the back turns out varieties such as Capricciose (anchovies, artichokes, mushrooms, olives and capers) and Quattro Formaggi (four cheeses, mozzarella, parmigiana, fontina and goat cheese)—and the animated crowd that fills the airy space and sidewalk seating is ardent in its approval.
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