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Delis are a dime a dozen, so it’s a nice surprise to find one with heart, not to mention long hours and a reliable menu of tasty sandwiches, wraps, and salads served without fanfare or attitude. Salmon-colored floor tiles, wood paneling, and fast-spinning ceiling fans provide minimal atmosphere, as do plasma TVs and a jazz soundtrack. The food itself offers ample visual inspiration, particularly in the patchwork grid of neatly arrayed toppings for custom-tossed salads. Sandwiches, however, are the main attraction, in every iteration of cold cuts, cheeses, grilled chicken, roast beef, and the like, with heftier heroes, like the H1, a creation of roast turkey, stuffing, cranberry sauce, and brown gravy that’s sure to satisfy an off-season, wee-hours hankering for Thanksgiving dinner. Better still is the Sgt. Sweet Pepper, a fortuitous melding of a crisp chicken cutlet, melted mozzarella, grilled onions, and zesty sweet peppers. Honey mustard seals the deal. Toasties Union Square is located on the ground floor of an NYU residence, making it a magnet for undergrads, who get a 10 percent discount (with any student I.D.). It’s also popular with Greenmarket staff, tourists, and hungry, if dim-eyed, club hoppers. — Michael Anstendig

You can order from Toasties’ full menu by phone or online (toastiesny.com); online orders enjoy a 10 percent discount, and round-the-clock delivery is always free.

Sgt. Sweet Pepper, $6.50; #1 (hot pastrami and corned beef with Swiss cheese, coleslaw, and Russian dressing), $6.50; H1 (roasted turkey with stuffing, cranberry sauce and brown gravy), $7.50