This bustling South Slope sports bar has four flat-screens and a Sicilian pizzaiolo manning a beehive brick oven. Despite a seemingly schizophrenic concept, Toby’s twelve-inch pies are much more satisfying than your typical pub grub, and the olive-oil-anointed Bufalina D.O.C., in particular, demonstrates an ideal sauce-to-buffalo-mozzarella balance. Toby’s pies are wet toward the middle, thin and crisp around the edges, and nicely kissed with wood-smoke flavor. They’ve already become a neighborhood draw—as has Bam’s beef jerky, made by Bam the bartender and sold in $5 Ziploc baggies. “Even the cops are coming in for it,” Bam told us himself.