Profile

This venue is closed.

Far from relating some faux-French affectation, “La Men” is actually the Japanese phonetic approximation of the word “ramen.” And while the cartoonish store sign suggests fast food, the hushed room lighted by spheroid velvety paper fixtures encourages more than a slurp-and-dash. Steaming house ramen emerges in enormous bowls on black lacquer trays with inky seaweed; tiny chicken cubes; assorted seafood; and a tangle of thin, curly wheat noodles readily enhanced by a few shakes of nanami togarashi, a crimson pepper blend. The corner sushi bar (graced with a Hello Kitty statue instead of the typical raised-paw good luck cat) draws those looking for straightforward rolls. The voluminous menu is also interspersed with teriyaki, breaded fried meats, a few Korean-influenced dishes, and a handful of sweet and tangy Japanese curries. — Krista Garcia

Tokyo la men, $9.95; chicken katsu kare don, $11.95