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This venue is closed.

With a narrow storefront of bare brick walls and rickety tables, it's not much for looks, but this humble Windor Terrace spot provides homeward bound F-train Slopers with lots of inexpensive, fresh, and modestly spicy Thai standbys. The zippy green papaya salad and tod mun—moist, silver-dollar fish cake fritters—let you know you're in good hands. There's a little too much sweetness in dishes like crispy snapper in chili-tamarind sauce, but for those who don't like it especially hot, Tookata will do the last-minute trick. Abundant curries and noodle dishes, like the smoky chicken kimow with stir-fried rice noodles chili and garlic, are all priced by the protein—tofu, chicken, beef, shrimp or duck, you pick 'em—and may encourage you to over order: Do. Prices are low, portions medium-size, and even though it offers no aspiration above serving home cooking, Bangkok-style, Tookata Thai Grill is two cuts above the generic Chinese take-out, and delivers, too. — Jack Robertiello

Kimow (flat noodles with fresh chili garlic in basil sauce), $6.95; kang ped (duck in Panang curry), $12.95