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Authentic sushi can only be judged on a few merits: the quality, freshness, and variety of the fish and the chef’s inventiveness and generosity in dishing it out. (Okay, presentation gets points too.) On these counts, Tora Ido, an easy-to-miss restaurant at the bottom of Seventh Avenue, delivers just fine. A reasonably priced omakase for two has more than enough of the classics (toro, salmon, fluke, etc.), plus an ample array of unusual options like Hawaiian yellowtail. That the chef might throw in a large bit of uni— stylishly perched atop its own spiky shell—is a sign of an eager-to-please graciousness. Signature rolls are heavy on tempura and a freshly made spicy sauce; twists on tradition, like lobster miso and creamy scallops, and costly specials, like giant clams, round out a mammoth menu that’s hard to read in the dim lighting. Even harder to spot are the piano, mics, and flat-screen in the corner. That is, until someone starts belting out karaoke or cabaret tunes. — Melena Ryzik

Chef’s choice sushi and sashimi, $58; spicy scallop rolls, $10