Totonno’s Pizzeria Napolitano

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87 Very Good

If you want a lesson in New York pizza history, take a subway ride to this Coney Island coal-oven institution.

1524 Neptune Ave., Brooklyn, NY, 11224

718-372-8606

Known For

The lowdown

A medieval crust, a sloppy splash of sauce, and the sweetest, freshest mozzarella make the pie at this famous pizza shack the best of its coal-oven kind by a wide margin. The occasional pizzaiolo outburst, the casual policy concerning store hours (open until the dough runs out), and the no-frills, airplane-wine-bottle selection only add to the charm. Forget about those short-lived Manhattan branches and their foggy affiliations. Every self-respecting pizza-loving New Yorker should visit the Coney Island original at least once in their lifetime. Go soon before they run out of dough permanently.

Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

What you need to know

DrinksBeer and Wine