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Chef Jason Marcus’s flaunting of all things unkosher is much more refined than you might imagine, despite liberal sprinklings of bacon on many dishes. Out of the diminutive open kitchen come neat small dishes for sharing, part of a menu that could be described as “micro-seasonal.” Yes, there are pig’s tails, co-mingled meats and dairies, and bottom-feeders of all stripes. But there’s also asparagus with pistachios, and a delightful truffled-egg toast with nothing sacrilegious about it. On Saturdays after sundown, the narrow dining room can get frenetic with tightly packed tables of cool kids. Though you’ll miss the view of the okMitch mural inside, it’s better to snag a spot in the garden room looking out onto a lush backyard landscape. If you want a cocktail that doesn’t come with a side of swine (as does the Rude Little Pig), there’s a Brazilian, a michelada driven by housemade pineapple hot sauce and Xingu Black Beer. Will the rabbis of South Williamsburg be tempted to break their religious vows for one of Marcus’s famed bacon doughnuts? Probably not, but it’s likely you'll be tempted to return for more. — Edna Ishayik

Truffled egg toast, $10; octopus paella, $14; bacon doughnuts, $6