Profile

Chef Jason Marcus’s flaunting of all things unkosher could have been seen as a slap in the face to the nearby community of Hasidic Jews, but his orthodox neighbors are unfazed by the concept. Off of a hyper-seasonal menu and out of the diminutive open kitchen come neat small dishes for sharing. Yes, there are pig's tails, mingled meat and dairy, and bottom feeders of all stripes. But there’s also asparagus with pistachios, and a delightful truffled egg toast with nothing sacrilegious about it. On Saturdays after sundown, the narrow dining room can get frenetic with tightly packed tables of cool kids. You’ll miss the view of the mural inside, but it’s better to snag a spot in the garden room looking out onto a lush backyard landscape. If you want a cocktail that doesn’t come with a side of swine (like the Rude Little Pig does) get a pickle-juiced michelada with Coney Island Albino Python lager. Will the rabbis of Williamsburg be tempted to break their religious vows for one of Marcus’s famed bacon doughnuts? Maybe not, but it’s likely you'll be tempted to return for more.  — Edna Ishayik

Truffled egg toast, $10; octopus paella, $14; bacon doughnuts, $6