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Run by two brothers-in-law from Sicily and Rome, Staten Island’s Trattoria Romana covers familiar New York-Italian territory. Pastas and risottos are served in huge portions, followed by chicken, seafood, and meat plates that favor veal. Twin storefronts with big glass windows house beige and black dining rooms—it’s essentially a neighborhood pizzeria with aspirations. Wine bottles, jars of pickled vegetables, and hand-lettered signs provide the majority of decorative touches. The sound generated by enthusiastic local crowds bounces off the tile floors and overwhelms a soundtrack that veers between opera and Elvis. Cooking here tends toward the safe, and sauces are capable, if uninspired. For example, Shrimp Fra Diavolo is served in a marinara too mild for Brother Devil himself, though the shrimp themselves are huge, sweet specimens, lightly breaded and seared. Produced in the wood-burning oven, a major attraction, are 19 different kinds of thin-crusted pizzas, each with singe marks on the top, indicative of the satisfying crispiness to follow. Among the full complement of Italian desserts, the fluffy tiramisu is so light it threatens to float up off the plate. Staying true to the trattoria idea of a casual family-run venue focused on simple, quality ingredients, Trattoria Romana gives its neighborhood clientele exactly what it’s looking for. — Ethan Wolff

Eggplant rollatini, $9.50; pizza Caprese, $11.95; ravioli con salsa di noce, $17.95