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Back when Batali was still an orange-clogged upstart, there was restaurateur Franco Fazzuoli, who Villagers relied on for old-school comfort at Il Ponte Vecchio, Zinno, and Cent'Anni. In the 90s he left the city behind for Arizona, much to his regulars' dismay. But judging from all the handshakes and hugs customers give upon entry, Fazzuoli's 2007 homecoming at Trattoria Toscana has been triumphant. The spot's lived-in atmosphere, with brick walls, terracotta-colored columns, and worn wooden floors, accommodates the clientele and the traditional Tuscan menu well. And while the cuisine doesn't stand out as much as the warm vibe, the hearty preparations certainly hit the nostalgic spot. Baby artichokes resemble little rosettes stuffed with crunchy breadcrumbs and garlic, and pastas are clearly homemade. Stuffed with ricotta and spinach and covered in a rustic Bolognese, the dish has a distinct meaty flavor that separates the ravioli from old-school versions. The intensity of black truffle and porcini similarly add forcefulness to fettuccine without weighing the ribbons down. The item most on par with the winning hospitality, however, is the tantalizingly tart mascarpone cheesecake. — Kathleen Squires

Baby artichokes, $10; spinach and ricotta ravioli, $15.50; fettuccine tartufo, $17.50; mascarpone cheesecake, $7.