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Tre Dici's maroon walls and white leather banquettes offer cozy showcases for knots of well-dressed diners on a night out. But Chef Giuseppe Fanelli's menu, using recipes created by his Italian-Apulian mother, isn't nearly as innovative as the interior design—until you get to the desserts. Main courses make good use of the kitchen's brick oven, and hand-made, tasty, whole-wheat pastas like ravioli are characteristic of the Southern Italian region—the heel of the boot. But some dishes disappoint, like pappardella with braised duck and caramelized onions. Smart patrons save their appetites for dessert: The Tre Dici cake stacks 20 layers of crêpes with billows of cream, a soft but intricately textured confection served with delectably crusty, faintly bitter caramelized bananas. — Timothy Cooper

Mon.– Fri., 4 p.m.–6 p.m.

Braised veal medallions, $24; Tre Dici crêpe, $8