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In 2006, a scrappy Aussie edged its way in amid the swish restaurants on this East Village block. No fine wines or soft lighting here; instead, you're greeted by a shark on the ceiling, a cheerful hello from the staff, and a rich whiff of baking pastry crust. Out of the oven slide trays of savory pies and sausage rolls, the shop's raison d’être. Best are the straight-up ground-beef and chook (chicken) pies. Pierce the crust and they start drooling gravy. The chicken version gets a boost from leeks and diced ham. For something lighter, try the sausage roll, a cylinder of pork sausage meat, spliced with carrot, and wrapped in a pastry crust. Vegetarians should turn to the veggie roll, with chickpeas and mushrooms in place of the sausage. Desserts aren't as successful, but you will have the rare chance to try a lamington, a slice of sponge cake layered with jam, coated in chocolate, and dusted with coconut. Once you've collected your order, you can nab a spot at the counter to eat—though the stools are a little short for the countertop, so your plate may be closer to your chin than your elbow. — Jennifer Paull

Sausage roll, $3; chicken pie, $5

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• Cheap Eats Guide 2006 (8/7/06)