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In 2006, a scrappy Aussie edged its way in amid the swish restaurants on this East Village block. No fine wines or soft lighting here; instead, you're greeted by a plastic shark on the ceiling, a cheerful hello from the staff, and a rich whiff of baking pastry crust. Out of the oven slide trays of savory pies and sausage rolls, the shop's raison d’être. Best are the straight-up ground-beef and chook (chicken) pies. Pierce the crust and they start drooling gravy. The chicken version gets a boost from leeks and diced ham. For something lighter, try the sausage roll, a cylinder of pork sausage meat, spliced with carrot, and wrapped in a pastry crust. Vegetarians should turn to the veggie roll, with chickpeas and mushrooms in place of the sausage. And what's an Australian spot without a Vegemite sanger (sandwich)? Here the glossy brown spread is smeared on crusty bread. Desserts aren't as successful, but you will have the rare chance to try a lamington, a slice of sponge cake layered with jam, coated in chocolate, and dusted with coconut. Once you've collected your order, you can nab a spot at the counter to eat—though the stools are a little short for the countertop, so your plate may be closer to your chin than your elbow. — Jennifer Paull

Sausage roll, $3; chicken pie, $5

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