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Among the first Asian spots to populate the main drag of Vernon Ave in 2005, Tuk Tuk is named after the tricycle taxis of Bangkok. Serving up standard Thai fare, its menu is structured with obligatory apps, curries, and sautés. Skip the basic spring rolls and pot stickers and jump to the noodle section for a bright cold vermicelli salad where cucumber and fresh basil cut the salty flavor of grilled beef. Many dishes are family-style, like the sprawling plate of tamarind duck; each bite is touched with a hint of smoke like the flavors of a lapsang souchong tea. Curries are tasty if inauthentic: A panang’s rusty ochre paste clings to chicken chunks and baby bok choy like mortar while the spice factor in the green curry singes the tongue, dulling any flavor of the broth itself. On summer Saturdays, the long, plainly decorated room is swarmed with the post-P.S. 1 Summer Warm-Up rush, but mostly it just sees a steady but manageable stream of hungry locals looking for a quick, cheap meal. — Edna Ishayik

Tamarind duck, $15