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After satisfying Great Neck patrons for over a decade with simple, fresh fish and a Greek-influenced menu, Israeli-born owner Sam Marelli opened this Manhattan version of his original place. Inside, well-heeled Upper East Siders fill elegant tables or sit at a long, chocolate-tone banquette clad in ostrich leather. The interior has the plush, dimly lit feel of a spa with its marble walls, natural wood floors, and the necessary panels of turquoise stone. On the menu, homemade Greek favorites like tsatsiki and baba ghannouj are refreshing. Still, they’re better than the vegetable salads or standard fried options. You might find the main courses at a seaside shack on Cape Cod, and the fish is just as fresh; grilled or fried, it usually comes simply dressed with olive oil and lemon. Larger fish, like Chilean sea bass or Alaskan salmon, are served as filets while smaller species like dorade or bronzini are offered whole, complete with head. Simple is best here. More complex preparations, like the salmon cooked in parchment or tilapia stuffed with crab, look sloppy and fall short of expectations. — Benjamin Kneen

Assortment of Mediterranean Appetizers, $9; Dorade Royal, $29