Una Pizza Napoletana

The rating scale of 0 to 100 reflects our editors’ appraisals of all the tangible and intangible factors that make a restaurant or bar great — or terrible — regardless of price.

80 Good

The acclaimed pizzeria returns to New York, this time in a larger space with natural wine and Italian-inspired small plates.

175 Orchard St., New York, NY, 10002

646-692-3475

http://unapizza.com

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The lowdown

New York’s pizza culture has expanded and matured since one of the city’s original Neapolitan-style pioneers, Anthony Mangieri, first burst onto the scene many moons ago. This space down on Orchard Street is larger and slightly more antiseptic than his original space on the fringes of the East Village, and nothing about the puffy, yeasty pies feels revelatory or groundbreaking, especially at $25 a pop. But thanks to his partners Fabian von Hauske and Jeremiah Stone, of Contra fame, you can complement your dinner with a variety of non-pizza items, and like music fans who’ll pay to see renditions of the songs they’ve heard again and again, there’s a certain value to catching the performance of a quirky, uncompromising master of the genre practicing his craft night after night.

Adam Platt

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What you need to know

DrinksBeer and Wine

Noise LevelCivilized