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Expect Southern cooking but not always Southern hospitality at this no-frills country kitchen in Williamsburg. When the phone lines are buzzing with takeout orders, the wait staff tends to get a little surly. But the in-house diners, who are used to being dissed by Williamsburg barkeeps and bouncers, don’t seem to mind. They just tuck into heaping plates of buttermilk fried chicken, bounce along to the Dolly Parton ditty on the hi-fi, and clink BYOB brews with their friends. The menu sticks mostly below the Mason-Dixie, with appetizers like fried okra and sweet potato fries preceding box dinners of fried chicken, mashed potatoes, chicken gravy, sweet purple ‘slaw and a chunk of crumbly cornbread. And the hung-over brunch crowd can’t get enough of the Elvis Toast: a French toast sandwich stuffed with peanut butter and banana. — Jon Steinberg

A smoker rounds out the Southern-food motif with BBQ fare.

Fried chicken with mashed potatoes and corn bread, $8.95; chicken fried steak $10.95; fried okra, $5.25